The instructions that come with the disc brake kit for the 66 Mustang are pretty easy to follow. They walk you through taking your old stuff off and the reassembly. Lucky for this project, it's like starting from scratch so the only thing I had to do was have the spindles checked for wear and then get them to the Powder Coater…

Installation of the spindles was a snap given the new ball joints and tie rod ends… after that was all torqued down to specs, I went to work on the brakes.

The first item to go on the spindle is the caliper mounting bracket. I found that the bolts didn’t slip through as they should have so the holes in my spindles needed to be reamed out a bit due to the powder coating. Be sure you have the correct mount for the correct side. These calipers mount towards the front.

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The first item to go on the spindle is the caliper mounting bracket. I found that the bolts didn’t slip through as they should have so the holes in my spindles needed to be reamed out a bit due to the powder coating. Be sure you have the correct mount for the correct side. These calipers mount towards the front.

A 3/8 inch rat file does the trick nicely

Next we install the Rotor splash shield.

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Notice the "L" on the Rotor splash shield…. that is for the left side… there is an "R" for the right side stamped on the other shield.

Using the supplied grade 8 bolts and lock nuts… tighten the dust shield & rotor mount to the spindle to 35-45lbs according to SSBC directions

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I ordered the slotted rotors with this kit… These need to be cleaned with brake cleaner as they have a protective coating on them from the factory.


Next, we needed to pack the bearings with grease… doing so takes a bit of patience (something I'm not famous for) but it is necessary to get the proper amount of grease into the bearings… last thing you want is a bearing to go out prematurely on such a new setup.

The larger bearing is the inner bearing that goes into the rotor. The smaller one goes on the outside. Place the "packed" inner bearing in the rotor assembly and pack some grease lightly between the lips of the grease seal while tapping into place (note us rubber mallet or block of wood… do NOT distort the seal as it is installed). Always keep a shop rag around so you don't make a huge mess with the grease. I simply pack the bearings, then remove the rubber gloves, and put on a new pair before putting the inner bearing and seal in the rotor…

After the bearings and seal are placed, install the rotor hub assembly on the spindle.

Pack the outer bearing and place on the spindle with the washer and adjusting nut.

Rotate the rotor while torquing the spindle nut to 17-25lbs (foot pounds). Back off the nut 1/2 turn then retighten to 10-15lbs. Position the nut retainer so the slots are in line with the cotter pin hole and install the cotter pin.

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Carefully install the grease cap so you do not dent or damage it during installation.

After installing the pads into the calipers, slide the caliper onto the mounting bracket using the 7/16 inch bolts provided torquing to 45-60lbs.

Attach the flex line to the frame bracket. Using Teflon tape on just the pipe thread end of the supplied elbow, install it into the caliper so the elbow is in a position to easily receive the flex line then connect the flex line to the elbow.

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It is important that once both sides are done and the wheels are installed, that a check for clearance of the lines be made by rotating the steering from stop to stop insuring that the lines do NOT kink. Any bind may cause sever brake lock up and failure… it only takes a moment to do and might even save your live down the road.

That's it for now… need to jump back to the steering column… the chrome tilt steering column from Ididit arrived…